The poster-children of modern Iran

Interesting stuff here. The Economist runs a web-diary from their correspondents around the world. This week it’s from Tehran (requires subscription):

One of the first stories written by every hack to arrive in Iran is about the coquettishly figure-hugging coats and loose headscarves worn by uptown girls to thwart Islamic regulations on public attire. We revel in the salacious details of their nose-jobs, dating habits, drug use, après-ski parties and weblogs.

“Why can’t people in the West see what Iran is really like?” said a young girl in extravagant make up and a vestigial vest top. “We’re the future.”

It is easy to see in these party-goers a rejection of the sterner side of the Iranian regime, embodied in the austere patrician face of Ayatollah Khomeini glowering from murals across Tehran. Reporters look at the statistics (around two-thirds of Iranians are under 30) and think the rebellious kids represent a younger, more open Iran seeking to throw off the strictures of its present leadership in a riot of fashion and fun.

That seemed to be the case in the late 1990s when a resurgent student movement helped propel a reformist, Muhammad Khatami, to the presidency. But as his movement sank into its political grave, we realised how small a proportion of Mr Khatami’s support came from its stylish middle-class poster-children.

I wish I’d had more time to write about my own experiences in Iran. Side-note: It’s incredible how much high-quality content you get from a subscription to The Economist!

Project 300

One of the things that surprised me in Iran was that even the people who were very critical of the government, also hated the movie 300. Many Iranians are very proud of their ancient Persian heritage, which they see as a highpoint in their culture – especially compared to what they have now. I haven’t seen the movie, but from what I hear it would be quite reasonable to be a little offended by the harsh portrayal of Xerxes and the Persian empire.

As a very amusing alternative and counterpoint, different Iranian artists have now launched Project 300 to “show the forgotten face of ancient Persia and modern day Iran”. Rock music, videos, grafitti, comics and much more. Most of the posts seem to be by artist Legofish. What a great way to use web 2.0!

Regarding the Iranian blogosphere

Global Voices today has an excellent interview with Danish researcher Caroline Nellemann, who has written her master thesis on the Iranian blogosphere. It is well worth a read, and I’m not only saying this because Caroline was my companion on my recent journey to Iran.

A little snippet from the interview:

I believe that blogs are a way of opposing prejudice. The blogosphere enables a pluralistic exchange of opinion and contributes to the eradication of prejudice. Most of the bloggers I talked to explained that they are participating in the blogosphere regardless of whether they agree or disagree with the blogs they read. This indicates that the blogosphere is not just a free-for-all for ideas, but at the same time promotes networking and allowing people to be better informed as well as more politically conscious citizens. Reading about everyday life in Iran and seeing pictures on a photo blog from Tehran might change a lot of Western idea about Iranian society. One of the Iranian bloggers I met developed a more nuanced view of the hejab after reading about women who actually wore it voluntarily.

However, the conclusion is realistic rather than optimistic. I think that if Caroline wrote her thesis again today, she would be more realistic (read: pessimistic) about the Iranian blogosphere’s potential for changing Iranian society. Some people read blogs, most don’t, and to cross from the virtual world to the real world is hard, especially when you live in a society with limited freedoms. Unfortunately the Iranian regime keeps a tight control on the Internet and on blogging, making it dangerous to take political action with blogs, and that is not going to change any time soon.

Linux in Farsi and other wonders of Bam

Another Syma Sayyah report: this time on the work of the Iranian NGO Science and Art Foundation‘s work in the city of Bam, which was almost destroyed by an earthquake a few years ago. The organization has been working with UNICEF and the Sharif University of Technology from Tehran in setting up computer courses for children. Most interesting fact: The Sharif University has designed a Persian version of the open-source operating system Linux. It is now being used to give the children of Bam access to the Internet. Also, check out the nice pictures which will give you yet another and different picture of Iran.

(Trivia note: all over Iran they have some preety gruesome turist posters with “before and after” pictures of Bam. I don’t know what they are supposed to do: make people come to Bam, or make them regret that they never had the chance before the city was destroyed).

Don’t Kiss That Woman!

There’s a poetic irony here somewhere: Iran’s hardline president Ahmadinejad under fire for kissing the hand of his old teacher. Actually, there was no skin contact, but it caused an uproar just the same. Danish news here, international here and a blog comment here.

More on the dress-code crackdown. Will the president now see how it’s like to be on the receiving side?

Now listen…

My friend in Tehran Syma Sayyah writes for Peyvand, an English-language site with news about Iran. Syma writes mainly about everyday things going on in Tehran, and her latest article is about a NGO helping hearing impaired children.

It hasn’t even been two weeks since I returned from Iran, and already it seems so far away. It’s nice to get this little view into what’s going on. It will also help you to remember, that in spite of all the war-threaths and madness, Iran is in a lot of ways just a normal country where people try to get on with their lives.

East and West: How to spot the difference

It’s a scorching day in Denmark. Summer is here at least a month too early and I’m thanking global warming. It’s a great day to think about a certain phenomenon that very clearly separates Western (I’m thinking particularly about North European) culture from Eastern. Is it the pietistic and protestantic background? No. Is it the long tradition for democracy, human rights and mindless egalitarianism? No. Then what about the fair skin and the long summer nights? No, no and no.

I’m thinking of course about the way we use our balconies. You know those little appendages we hang on the outside of buildings, especially apartment blocks, so people can get the illusion of being outside while they’re actually still in their apartment. You see, they way we use our balconies here in Denmark is vastly different from the way they use it in other places – Iran being one place, but also just on the other side of the Baltic in Poland, and even in Spain (which I here somehow confuse into the East category). So what is the difference? It is the difference between balconies as “extended living room” and balconies as “useful storage space”.

On a hot summer day when you walk around in Copenhagen, you’ll see every Dane who has acces to a balcony actually using it as a substitute for going to the park – they’ll be smoking, drinking coffee, having breakfast, sunbathing, reading a newspaper, whatever, and meanwhile enjoying the fresh air and the sun. Danes who have balconies almost live on them during the summer. But people here in Denmark of – for example – Middle Eastern decent (who are technically Danes but have a different cultural background) will not, never, ever use their balconies for pleasure. A balcony is to be used as a storage space – preferably for lots of coca-cola bottles or other soft drinks.

This essential difference was perfectly illustrated a few months back when me and my girlfriend happened into one of those silly home owner shows on Danish television. Here a young Danish couple of (I think) Pakistani decent (but I may be wrong) just had bought a new apartment, and the home-grown Danish television crew had followed them on their quest. The couple were young, recently married, happy, well integrated, spoke perfect Danish and was in all ways succesfully assimilated into Danish society. And yet, when the Danish interviewer admired the couple’s nice new balcony and said “this is so great: the lilttle baby carriage can stand out there on hot summer evenings” the girl were visibly horrified! There was no way she was putting her little yet-to-be-born baby out there! “No, I think we’ll use it for the coke bottles” she said and brushed the idea off. The guy nodded and agreed – I can extrapolate he was thinking: “this was going so well, but these Danes are really nuts”.

Now, the really funny thing is that here my girlfriend laughed and said: “It’s exactly the same in my familiy!”. You have to know here that she on her mother’s side is Polish-Jewish with that whole part of the family living in Denmark. And here it is exactly the same: no one goes out on the balcony. It is for storing stuff, not for putting out plants and a nice little table to drink coffee at in the morning. So apparently there is this storage-culture all the way from Poland and down (we can assume) at least to Iran, where I again observed the storage-phenomenon.

What’s the explanation? I don’t know. It could have something to do with the climate (which doesn’t explain Poland, though), because in Spain they were also using their balconies for storage – for eggs no less! And then they would make home-made mayonnaise from eggs that had been outside in the summer heat for days and never seen a fridge since they left the chicken. How gross is that?

Anyway: Some people think that the rows of sattelite dishes pointed towards Mecca indicate that a lot of immigrants live in a certain place. Maybe so, but an even better indication is the boxes on the balcony, filled with soft drinks or eggs or whatever. Just take a look the next time you’re passing by!

Where’s the sex?

Speaking of hejabs. Here’s a site that makes clear why hejabs are needed in the Middle East: traffic stopping, cardiac arrest inducing Lebanese Beauties. Danish girls often don’t have much hair to show, which is why they don’t cover it up – what’s the point anyway? Arab, Persian and Jewish girls on the other hand have some of the fullest heads of hair in the world, which is why they have to cover it up (not the Jewish girls, though). The effect of all that hair out in public space be disastrous.

Note:
You were probably wondering what happened to the sex promised in the subtitle to this blog. Well, here it is, a link to a site with no sex but lots of bathing suits. Just to show you a side of the Middle East, that you – unfortunately – don’t see every day.

Hejab crackdown

Last week when we were in Iran, there was a rumor going round, that the police were going to crack down on girls not wearing their hejab modestly enough (lots of Iranian girls wear it only to the middle of the top of their head, with lots of hair – sometimes carefully coiffed – visible). Apparently the rumors spoke the truth:

Some people I know have yet to see the packs of police ushering women into awaiting minibuses, but my regular stomping grounds are in the heart of bad-hejabland. “At least the police are polite here,” a taxi driver tells me. They have to be polite. They are being watched by neighbors with cameras and internet connections. “You should see them over at some of the other spots. They are really going after women with force and being rough.”

Sounds bad. On the other hand somebody told me that this was exactly the kind of attitude from the authorites which could shake the country up, since many people simply won’t stand for it any longer. Personally I don’t think we’ll see any rebellion anytime soon. So meanwhile: watch that hejab!

Update, 28th of april:
The news found way to Danish media as well.

Update, 29th og april:
Now they’re going for the men. No more David Beckham stylez for you! We saw a lot of guys with big gelled-up high-hair haircuts in Tehran. Thank god, they put a stop to that, they were really ridiculous!