Med slør og høje hæle

DR1 sender onsdag den 22. august andet afsnit i serien Med slør og høje hæle, der denne gang tager os til Tehran. Dansk-irakeren Anja Al-Erhayem skal i seks programmer prøve at vise os sider af Mellemøsten, som vi ikke er vante til at se (dvs. noget der ikke har med terrorisme, religiøst vanvid og kvindeundertrykkelse at gøre).

Selvom  jeg umiddelbart er lidt skeptisk overfor den slags programmer – der nogle gange mest ser ud til at skulle overbevise os om, at “de andre” i virkeligheden er “lige som os”, og at den længe ventede “sekulære revolution” derfor er lige om hjørnet – så jeg vil jeg se det her program med stor interesse. I Tehran i april mødte jeg nemlig en dansk-iraner, der havde hjulpet Anja Al-Erhayem med at lave programmet, skabe forbindelser til folk m.m. Jeg kan et par insider-historier, men jeg tror lige, at jeg skal se udsendelsen først. Under alle omstændigheder bliver det spændende med et gensyn med Tehran.

Project 300

One of the things that surprised me in Iran was that even the people who were very critical of the government, also hated the movie 300. Many Iranians are very proud of their ancient Persian heritage, which they see as a highpoint in their culture – especially compared to what they have now. I haven’t seen the movie, but from what I hear it would be quite reasonable to be a little offended by the harsh portrayal of Xerxes and the Persian empire.

As a very amusing alternative and counterpoint, different Iranian artists have now launched Project 300 to “show the forgotten face of ancient Persia and modern day Iran”. Rock music, videos, grafitti, comics and much more. Most of the posts seem to be by artist Legofish. What a great way to use web 2.0!

Regarding the Iranian blogosphere

Global Voices today has an excellent interview with Danish researcher Caroline Nellemann, who has written her master thesis on the Iranian blogosphere. It is well worth a read, and I’m not only saying this because Caroline was my companion on my recent journey to Iran.

A little snippet from the interview:

I believe that blogs are a way of opposing prejudice. The blogosphere enables a pluralistic exchange of opinion and contributes to the eradication of prejudice. Most of the bloggers I talked to explained that they are participating in the blogosphere regardless of whether they agree or disagree with the blogs they read. This indicates that the blogosphere is not just a free-for-all for ideas, but at the same time promotes networking and allowing people to be better informed as well as more politically conscious citizens. Reading about everyday life in Iran and seeing pictures on a photo blog from Tehran might change a lot of Western idea about Iranian society. One of the Iranian bloggers I met developed a more nuanced view of the hejab after reading about women who actually wore it voluntarily.

However, the conclusion is realistic rather than optimistic. I think that if Caroline wrote her thesis again today, she would be more realistic (read: pessimistic) about the Iranian blogosphere’s potential for changing Iranian society. Some people read blogs, most don’t, and to cross from the virtual world to the real world is hard, especially when you live in a society with limited freedoms. Unfortunately the Iranian regime keeps a tight control on the Internet and on blogging, making it dangerous to take political action with blogs, and that is not going to change any time soon.

The Velvet Underground as airplane music

The times they are a-changing… as always. The Velvet Underground used to be the nastiest, sexiest and most scary music money could buy. But last week when I took the Air France Airbus home from Tehran, they played Femme Fatale on the speaker system, like it was just another piece by Vivaldi. Granted it’s among the velvets’ more accessible tracks, but still it wouldn’t exactly call Nico’s voice calming and reassuring, or the lyrics soothing and relaxing. As she sings, she really is a little tease…

What’s next? Merzbow in the elevator?

Hejab crackdown

Last week when we were in Iran, there was a rumor going round, that the police were going to crack down on girls not wearing their hejab modestly enough (lots of Iranian girls wear it only to the middle of the top of their head, with lots of hair – sometimes carefully coiffed – visible). Apparently the rumors spoke the truth:

Some people I know have yet to see the packs of police ushering women into awaiting minibuses, but my regular stomping grounds are in the heart of bad-hejabland. “At least the police are polite here,” a taxi driver tells me. They have to be polite. They are being watched by neighbors with cameras and internet connections. “You should see them over at some of the other spots. They are really going after women with force and being rough.”

Sounds bad. On the other hand somebody told me that this was exactly the kind of attitude from the authorites which could shake the country up, since many people simply won’t stand for it any longer. Personally I don’t think we’ll see any rebellion anytime soon. So meanwhile: watch that hejab!

Update, 28th of april:
The news found way to Danish media as well.

Update, 29th og april:
Now they’re going for the men. No more David Beckham stylez for you! We saw a lot of guys with big gelled-up high-hair haircuts in Tehran. Thank god, they put a stop to that, they were really ridiculous!

Iran 4: Islam everywhere and I just want to quit

Before I went to Iran, I was so tired of hearing about Islam all the time in Danish media. The debate on the Danes and the Muslims have been going on for almost ten years and have only intensified and intensified. Ever since the Cartoon Crises I had personally gotten more and more critical of Islam as a religion and more and more critical of persons with a Muslim background as a whole. And I was really tired of being confronted with this issue all the time, and this goes for both the Islam-bashing of Danish blogs and the Danish People’s Party as well as the all too sugar-coated multiculturalism of the Danish Broadcasting Cooperation. And yet, I couldn’t and can’t help writing about Islam all the time.

I won’t say that my trip to Iran changed my views so much as expanded them greatly. I’ve met so many different people with so many different views and although I have an even worse picture of islamism as a political project, I’ve seen the incredible complexities of what we in the West call the Islamic world – even though I’ve really only scratched the surface. I’ve met devout Muslims who were thorough democrats and against the hejab, I’ve met anti-muslim Persians who hated George Bush and 300, and I’ve met an Iranian who grew up in Denmark as a refugee from Khomeini, but simply couldn’t take the heat anymore and went back to Iran – because off the hostile climate in Denmark towards anyone of Middle Eastern decent. All this made me think, and the bottom line is:

Let’s all just shut up about Islam for a while and try to see people as individuals. Try to listen some more, please.

Iran 3: Good Omens

On the other hand: When we actually got to the airport the dark clouds seemed to clear up.

It started badly enough: My companion was beginning to get worried about the lenght of her coat/manteu, which is supposed to go to below the knee (and be square and ugly and not show the female form in any way). Maybe this coat wouldn’t even be useful in Iran? This was especially unfortunate, since she had spent most of the day before colouring the coat black to fit the cheerful Iranian colours. The mood worsened as she saw herself spending her whole time in Iran in her only other coat, which we fittingly called the Beppo street-cleaner coat.

But then, fortune smiled upon us: When the nice girl at the counter asked for our tickets and where we were going, and we told her Tehran, she said: “That’s funny. That’s where I’m from! I’ve just been there and its great!” We immidiately started relaxing and she told us that the weather was good and that she had a Danish boyfriend who had been to Iran several times, loved the country and the food.

Then my companion gathered the courage to ask about the coat. The girl glanced at it and said “Don’t worry, you’ll be fine. No problem.”

Thanks, check-in-counter-girl!

Iran 2: Bad Omens

Departure: We took the taxi to the station to get to the airport. The taxidriver was a big and burly man, most likely a from refugee from war-torn Ex-Jugoslavia, a Bosnian, Serb or Croat. He looked at our bags and asked us where we were going. When we said “Iran” he laughed out loud, surprised and in disbelief:

“Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, I would never go to a place like that!”

“You guys live too interesting lives!”, he said and laughed even more. And right then I was inclined to agree with him. I mean, this was a guy who probably felt at home in the minefields around Sarajevo or in some bombed out village near Vukovar. And yet to him going to Iran seemed like the most outrageous idea anyone could have.

Were we really that naive? Were we really insisting on living too interesting lives? We had already crossed the Andes mountains in a 8-person airplane and sailed the Amazon in a fragile motorboat, but perhaps going to Iran was even more outlandish?

Anyway, we would soon find out… There was no turning back.

Iran 1: Scarfs blowing in the wind

I’ve hardly gone off to Iran before the Danish debate on the Islamic headscarf runs amok. Danish MP and theologian Søren Krarup insists that in some ways the islamic headscraft can be compared to the nazi swastika in the sense that both are symbols of an totalitarian ideology. Not the best analogy I’ve seen and quite limited in its use, but still it is causing quite a stir. Seems like everything in Denmark is about islam these days. Very exhausting. But perhaps worth making a point of as I try to gather my thought on my two very intense weeks in Iran.

According to Jacob Mchangama, Krarup forgets christians’ tendency through history to cover their women up as well. Having returned this morning from a country where it is a crime for women not to wear the Islamic hijab when they are among strangers, the comparison is thoughtprovoking but maybe not entirely justified. Nobody in the Christian world now enforces a law to cover women up, but the strange thing is that until a few decades ago many countries in the Islamic world didn’t as well. Is Islam going backwards? Maybe – and maybe not.

In Iran it was forbidden to wear the hijab until the Islamic Revolution in 1979. The Shah wanted to modernize the country by force and followed in the footsteps of Turkey, and this development in turn provoked an Islamic counter-revolution. Which is perhaps also what waits countries like France when they try to forbid Islamic dress (here we try to forget for a minute that many women choosing the hijab in the Western world do so of their own free will/religious beliefs and not because of tradition).

The irony for a country like Iran is obvious: Until the mid-1930’es the hijab was optional, worn by women from a traditional or religious background, but many others chose not to. Of course after the “unveiling” nobody wore the hijab, but after 1979 it returned with a vengeance. And the new Islamic powerholders were in some ways justified in now forcing the modernizers to wear the hijab. After all, were they not themselves forced to take it off? Now they wanted their freedom to dress as they wished. Use of political force to achieve one’s (perhaps enligthened) goals is a two-edged sword: With the winds of change, the force might soon be turned on you. Better to tread carefully, hubris awaits for anyone believing that they can change hundreds of years tradition with a pen-signature and a police order.

Of course this goes both ways: The Islamic Revolution’s insistence on forcing all women to wear the hijab does not make the women any more religious. The Islamics Revolution’s really rather modern attempt to revolutionize a whole society (which is where the comparison to other recent all-consuming ideologies becomes important) by in a way “out-shahing the shah” will probably in the end lead to another counter-revolution – or maybe just lead the country down the drain.

Actually, the regime is doing their religion a great disservice. Taking the Air France plane this night, the first thing I saw in the cabin after take-off was a planeload of women removing their hijabs and headscarfs. They couldn’t wait to loose what is to them a symbol of oppression. Maybe, if the Iranian women were free to choose, a few more might want to leave it on.